Korcula and Dubrovnik - the Dalmatian Coast at its Best

On the 23^rd, we moored in the bay off the Croatian island of Korcula after sailing further south along the coast of Croatia.  For the first time, we didn’t dock in the port but needed to take tenders into the port.  It was a bit tricky as the water was pretty bumpy making it not so easy to get on and off those boats.

Korcula is a Croatian island with an area of 108 square miles just off the Dalmatian coast.  It stretches in an east-west direction and is about 47 km long and 8 km wide.  There are several main settlements on the island including Korcula, Vela Luka and Blato.  Our short time here really wasn’t sufficient to get the feel for the island.

The town of Korcula was founded in the 12^th century BC by Antenor, a Trojan hero who is also credited with having founded the city of Padua.  The area was actually inhabited by Mesolithic and Neolithic groups and later by the Illyrians, a semi-nomadic group, around 1000 BC.  The old town of Korcula is believed to have been the birthplace of the merchant traveler Marco Polo. The island has seen some turbulence over the past century having been occupied by Italy, Germany, and Yugoslavia before finally becoming part of the Republic of Croatia in 1991.

I had seen Korcula once briefly a couple of years ago when the ferry I was taking from Dubrovnik to another Croatian island called Hvar stopped here.  It looked very pretty and I was looking forward to exploring it further.  Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t really cooperating as the day had started off rainy and gloomy.  However, by mid-morning the clouds had lifted and we were greeted with some sunshine.

Our tour started on the outside of the town’s medieval walls.  The town is surrounded by 14^th century defensive wall and towers.  On the northern end of the Old Town is the Kanavelic Tower built in 1488. We made our way into the centre and up the ancient stairs to the cathedral.  We had passed lots of pretty little alleys and narrow streets on our way there.  

As we had visited many (innumerable) cathedrals over the last few days, I decided to leave the tour just as it was about to enter St, Mark’s Cathedral (completed in the 15^th century) and explore the town on my own.  One person remarked “this is the ABC cruise – another bloody cathedral!”  Besides, I wanted to take some photos.  On these walking tours, one rarely gets the opportunity to stop and take photos and, even if you do, any pictures you take are filled with the other people in your group.  Usually, just as you are about to frame the perfect shot, some unobservant fellow traveller steps in front of you.  So, I was happy to be on my own for a bit.  We only had a couple of hours in Korcula so I was back on the ship early, by 11 am.  It seemed to me it might be a place to come back to and explore further rather than just wander around the tiny town. 

The afternoon was spent cruising further south down the Dalmatian coast to Dubrovnik where we docked about 5 pm.  While we had the opportunity to visit the town in the evening, I didn’t bother.  I had spent 7 days here just two years ago. 

The neighbourhood of Lapud in Dubrovnik where I had rented an apartment 2 years ago.

Dubrovnik is one of the most prominent tourist destinations in the Mediterranean.  Its total population is about 45,000 and, in 1979, the old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site because it is considered to be one of the best preserved medieval walled cities in the world.  Lord Byron referred to it as “the Pearl of the Adriatic”.  Of course, these days, it also enjoys some notoriety as a location for the TV series, Game of Thrones!  

The prosperity of Dubrovnik was historically based on maritime trade.  As the capital of the Republic of Ragusa, a maritime republic, the city achieved a high level of development, particularly during the 15^th and 16^th centuries and became notable for its wealth and skilled diplomacy. 

The last time I was here I walked around the city wall.  It is a very impressive walk with stunning views over the town, up to the mountains, and out to sea. This time, I didn't do much other than wander down the Strana, the city's main wide and marbled street; out to the old harbour; and then back along some familiar alleyways through the Pile Gate back to the shuttle bus.  

There is no question this city is a wonderful place and it rightly deserves its reputation as a popular tourist destination.  The only issue is that the town is swarming with them making it hard to move around!  Again, because it was all so familiar, I headed back to the ship early.  Dubrovnik, in my opinion, is best in the evening when the tour buses are gone and it is a quiet medieval city.