Thursday, 3 October 2019

A New Country for Me: Albania

One of the things that attracted me about the itinerary for this cruise was that one of the stops was in Albania, albeit the focus was going to be on another "antiquity" but it would give me the opportunity to see a bit of that country.  I knew virtually nothing about Albania other than its capital is Tirana and it was formerly a communist country. 

By way of background, Communist Albania was formed after WWII which launched the Albanians on a path of oppression and decades of isolation. The revolutions of 1991 concluded with the fall of communism in Albania eventually the establishment of the current Republic of Albania.  Politically, the country is a unitary, parliamentary, constitutional republic and a developing country with an upper-middle income economy dominated by the service sector.   Albania provides universal health care and free primary and secondary education to its citizens. The country is a member of the United Nations, World Bank, UNESCO, NATO, WTO among other organizations.  It is an official candidate for membership in the EU.
Personally, I was surprised when I had breakfast on the aft deck of the ship to see the harbour.  I am not sure what I was expecting of Albania but it wasn’t a very modern seaside resort with lots of big hotels and lovely beaches.  One thing I noticed as we drove through the town was a number of strip bars – quite a lot; I counted at least 4 in less than 2 km.




The scenery on the drive to Butrint was lovely although the land was quite sparse and dry.  Many of the houses looked okay but there was lots of unfinished constructions.  The guide told us that the average salary in Albania is €350 a month and a senior’s pension would be about €150.  Of course, being on an excursion, we didn’t get to find out exactly what goods were being sold for.  The hotels looked lovely so I am wondering what the cost of rooms in them would be.
The drive to Butrint was about 45 minutes and we had been warned there would be lots of walking over rough ground and, as well, a climb of 145 steps up to the top of the hill where there is a lovely view across the lagoon and out to see.


Butrint was the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city and a bishopric.  The city was abandoned in the late Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area.  It is situated on a lagoon.  It is one of the Ionian coastline’s most remarkable archaeological sites apparently and one of Albania’s most beautiful national parks.  Butrint was founded by the Trojan Helenus who fled west after the fall of Troy.  In the Greek period, it was one of the major centres of the Chaonians, particularly valued for its proximity to the straits of Corfu.  From 1799 until Albania gained its independence in 1912, the ruins belonged to the Ottoman Empire.
During our tour, we walked along winding paths and saw layers of civilization:  the Greek sanctuary, the Ancient theatre, the Christian baptistery and ruined basilica and Venetian watchtowers.  






There was the opportunity to climb the hill to Butrint’s acropolis with its wonderful views.  I decided to skip that part.  I heard that the climb up wasn’t that bad but the walk back down was a bit tricky so I was fine with missing it.  Besides, I am overwhelmed with all the ruins!



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